Saturday, May 16, 2015

Saturday, May 16 – Whales and Glaciers and Salmon, Oh My



Another early start, though happily an hour later than yesterday.  We seemed to arrive in port a good two hours ahead of schedule, giving me the opportunity to watch us glide up to the dock and parts of the process to secure the boat since our port-side stateroom was facing the dock this time.

After a quick breakfast at the buffet, we headed into the line of passengers exiting the ship, but things were moving much better than yesterday.  Between the earlier docking and our later departure, we seemed to have lucked out.

The bus to the combo tour of whale watching and visiting the Mendenhall Glacier pulled up right near the exit ramp, and off we went to our first adventure.  This tour was run by the same folks who had taken us to Misty Fjords, the Allen Marine folks.  If you ever get the chance, look them up, they do a professional and very enjoyable job.  We saw a mother-and-calf humpback pair soon after motoring into fairly open waters, and after hanging out with them for a while we passed a pair of navigation markers with a bald eagle perched on each.  Another buoy was covered in sea lions, with a group of seals trying to get their share of the sunlight.  As the sea lions were in no mood to share, we found ourselves witness to a pinniped punchfest – quite a show!  (We were told that the sea lions were so protective of this prime sunning spot that when the Coast Guard arrives to perform maintenance first they fire-hose the critters off of it, then they actually remove it from the water in order to service it without being attacked.  Sheesh!)

The weather was perfect again – some high haze and lots of sunshine.  This allowed us to view the Eagle Glacier, which normally is occluded by mist and/or clouds.  Shortly after that, a big humpback surfaced very near the boat; followed by our motoring past a rocky shoal with a dozen or so bald eagles hanging out.  Another mother-and-calf pair surfaced and gave us some flukes.  Many of these whales are identified and tracked world-wide, so we know they winter in Hawaii, where the 700# calves are born.  Mom needs to feed them well, as they need to gain 7# per hour to gain enough insulation to survive up north.  Mother feeds herself all summer and fasts all winter.

Angie and I both rationed our sun time carefully as yesterday we each sustained an interesting inner-thigh sunburn received RIGHT THROUGH OUR JEANS as we sat on our little balcony.  Too weird!  We were amused to see all the locals in shorts & t-shirts, while we visitor lugged around many layers of insulation.  While we were indeed too warm, it beat being thoroughly chilled.

We returned to the dock, wishing we could have stayed on much longer.  But the bus to Mendenhall Glacier was waiting, and we were eager to see it – the only drive-up glacier around!  We had exactly an hour there, to learn from the Park Service exhibits and rangers, and take in an educational film.  It was startling to be told the historical reach of the glacier at various times.  But the broad reach of ice was beautiful and its little “calves” in the lake below glowed the eerie glacial blue.

Back to the bus, and to the ship.  We left a few things in the room and walked back to the downtown shopping district to check out a few specialty shops.  Each of us was able to fill some items on her “to do” list, so we hoofed it back to the boat once again.  Dropping all extraneous items, we enjoyed a glass of wine outside and wondered at a parasailer soaring high above us for a good half-hour.  We then headed off to our salmon feast.  The venue was sited along a rushing creek, with a lovely wide waterfall a short walk up a gravel path.  The sun came out and graced us with a rainbow on top of all the other lovely things this day had brought.  The salmon was very good (and of course scary fresh); while the remainder of the meal was forgettable, we genuinely enjoyed our dinner with Mother Nature.

On the way back from dinner our driver noted that he’d heard there was “a good chance” of an aurora tonight, so some fellow riders whistled up the app and confirmed its projection of beautiful colors around 1 or 2 AM.  We’re not going to set any alarms, but if nature would call around then, I guess we’d poke a head out and see what’s up.

Back at the boat, Angie bravely took the stairs (we had to laugh at ourselves when we realized why it seemed we never could count the floors correctly … the floor numbers progress from 11 to 12 to 14!) and made just as good time as I did on the elevator.  We both have long surpassed 10,000 steps today, and are looking forward to a good sleep tonight…another early call tomorrow when we visit Skagway.

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